2.5 months in Seoul, South Korea
 
Sunday, March 02, 2008
Cafes in Seoul that I love...(in Korean)
Over the summer I made a presentation to my Sogang Korean language class on my favorite cafes in Seoul. Seoul has a great cafe culture--people spend hours and hours just sitting and chilling with friends over an iced green tea latte or slice of cheesecake. (Can nobody make a green tea latte like they do in Seoul?? Since I've been back in the US I've ordered about 4 and they're just not the same..)

I was planning to convert this into a blog entry one day, but I realized it's already spring and I still haven't found the extra time. Maybe when MCATs are over!
For now, here's a segment of the raw Korean presentation version, complete with photos. The cafes are in Sinchon, Daehangro, and Myeongdong:

PART I:




PART II:


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posted by Jane @ 2:08 PM   3 comments
Friday, April 20, 2007
VIT: Understanding the Shame



Like everyone else, my first reaction when I heard about Virginia Tech was shock, followed by worry and empathy for victims.

However, my emotions became more complicated when a day and a half later, I found out that the shooter was Korean. Like many Korean Americans, I couldn't help but feel shame and distress, feeling somehow implicated in the incident. In fact, I felt slightly sick knowing that all that carnage was caused by a Korean. Illogical? YES. But it was a natural reaction mirrored by many Korean Americans:

"I think we, as the Korean-American community, hold responsibility to a certain degree," Joseph Juhn said.

"I hope the mainstream American society at large would understand how sorry we feel." - Park Young Sup, president of the Korean Community Center in Doraville.

Objectively, this makes no sense. Why are Koreans apologizing? As Adrian Hong wrote in the Washington Post, Koreans aren't to blame!

Part of the reaction can be attributed to highly collectivist Asian culture, the ingrained emphasis on family and community. It resulted in emotional distress among the ethnic community after the incident, which Cho Seung-Hui's parents felt even more intensely (they were hospitalized for shock). The Virginia Tech shooting was especially highly publicized in the South Korean media. Many Korean officials expressed their apology and regret for the incident.

Much of the emotion, however, can be linked to the the model minority stereotype in America. As stereotypes go, it seems more positive than most. In fact, the image of the intelligent, hard-working, moral Asian is embraced by many Korean American households. Think Ivy League.. think i-banking and med school... Harold Lee in the movie Harold and Kumar go to White Castle. Personally, I grew up with cut-outs of news articles featuring Korean Americans' achievements on the fridge. and always had the vague sense that my high school and middle school academic successes were somehow adding to the prestige of the Korean American community.

Rather than trying to fight stereotype like many groups do, Asian Americans have embraced the idea of a model minority. The result is a strengthening of the assumption that every Korean is representative of Koreans in general. And Cho Seung-Hui, as a mentally unstable Virginia Tech gunner, now stands in the way of the ideal of the professional-career, church-going, compliant Asian.

Maybe it's time we got rid of the model minority stereotype anyway. The assumption that all Asians are anger-less, mentally healthy individuals seems to be a factor in Cho Seung-Hui's inadequate mental health treatment and his subsequent rampage. If any racial implications are to be drawn from the event, the episode has shown that the desire to appear a flawless minority in American society combined with the Korean stigma of mental disorders can have disastrous results.

No matter how positive it may be, the model minority stereotype needs to be de-emphasized, especially by the Asian American community itself. We need to accept that all races have their murderers, their mentally ill, their smart, and their dumb. Even Koreans.

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posted by Jane @ 12:23 PM   1 comments
Thursday, August 24, 2006
Leaving Tomorrow.. T.T
Getting up earlier than I have this entire summer -- 4:30 AM!! -- in order to take the airport shuttle from Seoul to Inchon, and then fly to Japan -- transfer --- and Chicago --- transfer -- and FINALLY NEW JERSEY!

Leaving Korea =(
it was definitely the most memorable trip of my life, but at the same time I'm looking forward to going back~

Things I'll Miss from Seoul
- being with halmunee, aunts, cousins, uncles who are all so completely comfortable with each other and spend long periods of time sitting on a hardwood floor joking and eating fruit
- chunsa classroom at Sogang; hearing Japanese-accented Korean, discussing things like "explaining directions" and "eating boshintang" for hours
- eating ddukbokki/ramen/kimbahp/chigae for like $3 at 4 AM
- crass Korean jokes that are nonetheless hilarious
- sparkling clean floors
- Korean barbecue + soju, a perfect combination
- NOREHBANG!
- having everything be little and cute, from stationary to kitchen appliances
- going to a restaurant and finishing everything in my plate without feeling pregnant
- hongdae club night
- working up a sweat in jjeemjeelbang, Korean sauna


Things I Miss in America
- understanding everything that is said around me (at least if it's in English)
- actually seeing people who do NOT have pale skin, dark hair, and Asian features
- hearing ebonics
- home family =)
- friends =]
- clothes in non-pastel or fluorescent colors that don't fall apart after 1 washing
- DRYING MACHINES
- pancakes. fatty breakfast foods like bacon and eggs, especially from Cracker Barrel
- driving
- shopping without having the salespeople tail me.. actually, American shopping malls
- COMFORTABLE SHOES
- fake Chinese food- eg, lo mein, general tso's chicken
- inches, yards, pounds, miles.. not having to convert units in my head

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posted by Jane @ 9:23 AM   13 comments
Friday, August 04, 2006
Korean "Summer Dress Code"
Now that the swelteringly hot weather of Korean August has arrived, the newspapers have been putting out articles about dressing for the heat.
Let me rephrase "dressing for the heat". Dressing to avoid offending people, despite the heat.

From the Korea Times, "Dress Properly, or Don’t Complain of Stares".
By Korean college student Park Yu-rie.

She complains that every day, "
A naked leg is plastered on my leg. Another naked arm is stuck on my arm."
Naked leg. E.g. leg in shorts or skirt. Obscene, the nakedness of a female leg.
Not to speak of the fantasies that men have of naked arms.
She continues, "
And once again, I close my eyes as to avert my vision from staring at the nakedness. "
Every time I see someone's arm exposed in a t-shirt or tank top, it makes me feel faint as well. Right. This girl had better not go to a mokyoktang (Korean public bath), she'd be scarred for life.


A slightly more useful article, from the Chosunilbo: Summer Fashion No-No's and How to Avoid Them. I completely agree with the "No"'s, particularly:
-
"panties visible over a pair of low-rise pants -- plus, for good measure, some excessive flab around the tummy. "
...popularly called muffin tops in America, as shown below

- "wearing shirts so tight they show the shape of your nipples; wearing just a vest without anything inside it."
Men, this is just gross.
- "staggering around in 10 cm wedge heels when you can’t cross the street in time"
Though I have to admit that Korean women are pretty good at running in high heels.

The article also says that, "for men, wearing T-shirts with armpits soaked or discolored with perspiration" is a No, and informs us that "there are sweat-absorbing pads to be attached around armpits available on the market." Wow, having pads strapped to your armpits seems uncomfortable... ever heard of a thing called deodorant?



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posted by Jane @ 9:49 PM   0 comments
Sunday, July 23, 2006
Sexy, Eggy Americans
It's funny how people rely on stereotypes in tough situations. In Psych we learned that stereotypes are actually a survival mechanism.. in the majority of situations, our stereotypes are true, and so having them helps us act quickly when we need to.

Well, Koreans have some strange stereotypes of Americans! For example, a Korean friend told me that most people from a certain nation have a defining scent. Apparently the Japanese have a briny, oceany smell; Indians have a pungent, spicy smell; and Koreans have a alcohol-y, garlic-y smell (Okay, she didn't actually say alcohol-y smell, but it's true!).

"What about Americans? Do we have a particular smell?" I asked, curious.
She replied (in Korean, of course), "Ahh, yes! It's hard to describe, but they have this vague odor sometimes...smells just like eggs!"













EGGS?
I was expecting maybe grease, sugar, sweat? But...eggs.. I guess it could be worse.


The other thing I keep hearing is that Americans are very "opposite of conservative". Yeah... this was clarified when I bought a Korean magazine one day. It had a special called "Vacance Sex Report".

It was one of those spreads where they do a whole bunch of polls about what percentage of people wait to have sex before marriage, the preferred location of most couples to have sex, what they like to do afterwards, all that TMI stuff.















Well, this magazine is obviously a Korean magazine and 95% of the models in it are, understandably, Korean.
But when you get to the sex section, everyone suddenly switches to white. Not a single Korean or Asian-looking model in the entire spread. Just a wholleee bunch of white couples kissing, making out, and seducing each other.




















C'mon.. are Americans just that sexy? I mean, eggs are hardly considered an aphrodisiac. (Not to mention the fact that white does not equal American.. I mean, what happened to all the blacks, Hispanics, Asians, etc. I guess they don't have sex either)


Despite America's reputation for romance, I have NEVER seen as many couples walking around on the streets as I have in Seoul. If you're walking on the street in Sinchon, I guarantee that you will be behind a giggling, hand-holding couple who will stop at EVERY stall to look at items and unapologetically take up the entire sidewalk.

Seoul is the city for lovers. Forget Paris or Milan. Here there are multitudes of activities for you and your significant other to bond over. For example, if you want to go to a cafe-- why not go to the popular "Twosome Place"? Or a cozy wine and cake cafe. Even if you want ice cream or patbingsoo, everything comes in "Couple" sizes on the menus.

"Couple" is pretty much a theme here, and one of the English words that every Korean you speak to will know. (Some of the other ones are "complex" as in psychological complex, "multiplayer", "fighting", and "oh my god!").

You can buy "Couple" cell phone charms and from every other street vendor.





"Couple" outfits are coming into fashion too-- basically you wear the same design of clothing as your boyfriend/girlfriend, usually of a bright, fluorescent color with some distinctive image on the front.

Girls are pretty much set here too. Koreans consider it rude to pay Dutch, even when out with friends or relatives. So basically the guy always pays for meals, transportation, etc.
Also, Seoul is literally the only place where I regularly see guys ENTHUSIASTICALLY helping their girlfriends pick out makeup! You will see almost as many guys as girls if you go inside a beauty store. ^_^;; Sometimes the guys even try some of the makeup for themselves..
Guys holding their girlfriends' purses is taken for granted as well. And everywhere you will see couples taking photos of themselves in cute poses together on their cell phones. Haha, these later become cell phone backgrounds.

I think it's cute. 나도 남자 친구를 생기면 서울에 데려가 야될거야! ;)

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posted by Jane @ 5:01 AM   4 comments
Sunday, July 09, 2006
What is it with Delusional Celebrities and Korea?

"I feel like a princess."

News Article (props to Mark for the link)


Above is Britney Spears, a few years back when she came to Korea and tried on the traditional Korean dress called a "han-bok".
She looks so demure and innocent. No one would ever guess that she has a "toxic" side:


Anyway, it was a good publicity stunt on Britney's move. Most Koreans here believe that she is one of the most popular singers in Korea. They usually refer to her as "blonde-haired girl".

But Britney's friendly relationship with Korea didn't last for long.
Recently Britney Spears sued one of South Korea's most popular singers, Hyori Lee. This was a plagiarism suit: apparently Hyo Lee's recent song "Get Ya" sounded similar to Britney's "Do Something".


Hyo Lee: plagiarist?

---------------------

Does this actor look familiar to you?


It's Nicholas Cage, who married Korean waitress Alice Kim several years ago.

I guess this could either be seen as a classic Cinderella story (watch Cage's movie "It Could Happen to You", where he also falls in love with a waitress) or extremely sketchy in an Itaewon-ish way (rich actor picking up penniless waitress with questionable English skills).

I'm leaning towards sketchy since the couple first met at a "booking club", a nightclub where men pay to get waiters to escort a lady of their choice to their tables.
Check out this Wall Street Journal article about Korean booking clubs. I particularly like the quote by Ms. Kim, 'It's embarrassing to walk up to a guy you don't know and start a conversation,' says Ms. Kim. 'Guys will think I'm easy.'

Anyway, the marriage seems to have lasted. The couple had a baby earlier this year!


When a Korean and an American have a baby, there are quite a few possibilities for naming the child.

Maybe a traditional American name like Michael? Or a Korean one like Jung? I have a bunch of friends who even have two names, an American one and a Korean one.

But no.. Celebrities are too special to be like normal people.


They gave the kid a name out of a comic book!

"KAL-EL", Superman's secret Krypton name.

Let's hope this kid doesn't grow up delusional and try to fly from the top of a skyscraper. Or more likely, be so embarrassed by his name that he disappears to some obscure country like Tibet (to a monk: "Kal-el? That's just a typical American name..").


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posted by Jane @ 2:32 AM   3 comments
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Proud to Be an Oversized American
The 4th of July in Korea is not a big deal at all. Although Kim Jong Il's missile launch was pretty audacious timing.

But if anywhere in Korea were to celebrate America's Independence Day, we thought that it would be Itaewon. Itaewon is an old GI base, meaning that there are tons of places catering to Americans. We thought that this would mean fireworks, 4th of July food and drink specials, and decorations.

No. None of the above.

Actually, it means:

- cafes named "America". Restaurants telling you "We have English menu for you welcome!!!"













- offices specializing in "marriage translation" and passports/visas for bringing your new bride home













- "Welcome to Korea" archway

Kaila: "What...like the other side of the archway is not Korea?"




































- 큰 옷! Tons of signs advertising, quite literally "BIG CLOTHES". Too bad we Americans can't fit into tiny Korean sized clothing.












- scantily dressed Korean women yelling greetings at men to enter their club or pressing themselves against upstairs windows. a disproportionate number of "massage" parlors



...Oh...


So I've just found out that the place that we were wandering was called "Hooker's Hill".
This explains a lot more than the sore calves we had from walking up inclines...


Well, at least there was KFC. Can't get any more American than that:














Actually, we had to order two "Family sized" Combos. For four people. And it was still barely enough.
(^_^;;) Biiiiiig American sizes => Biiiig American people who need to go to special stores to buy 큰 옷!


After wandering around the streets of Itaewon looking for an okay bar (i.e. something with no barely dressed women "entertaining" you), we declared it impossible and went back to Sinchon. Ahhh, lovely Sinchon...















Merlot wine and cheesecake/tiramisu.

Much preferable to prostitutes and sketchy male customers, don't you agree?

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posted by Jane @ 6:47 AM   0 comments
Thursday, June 08, 2006
Korea: Days 1 to 4
SEOUL!

After a grueling 24-hour plane trip which involved 14 hours of me being squashed next to an obese male passenger in United Airline's child-sized "Economy Plus" seats (what does "Economy Plus" mean anyway?), I'm finally here!















At Newark International, before our looooong flight that stopped at Chicago, Japan, and finally Korea.

I was actually planning on making a post my very first day in Korea, but I didn't anticipate our housing experience when we arrived in Seoul... The description the landlord had given us when we'd made reservations had sounded great--individual air conditioning, internet, safe area, etc. What we saw when we got there was much different, and one of the many amenities that the place lacked was INTERNET. He was pretty mad when we moved out...pissed off Korean=scary.

I'm now in an awesome place called Cherryville Living-tel. Living-tels are one of many "tel" places (like Office-tels and Goshi-tels, hotels, and motels) which rent out small single rooms to students and other Koreans. This place is unbelievably clean, like most of the facilities here in Korea. When we got there, the owner was vacuuming the floors, which were already practically shining. To keep the floor spotless we have to take off our shoes before entering and put them in locked shoe cupboards outside the doors. I have a room key and a shoe cupboard key.



















If we want to go up the stairs the owner provides special slippers to wear, and there are also a different set of slippers for the bathroom and shower!














Thinking back on the huge dust/dirt/hairballs on many Yale students' dorm floors, I think Yale could probably invest in a couple thousand pairs of slippers..

My actual room is much bigger than I expected--it has a bed, desk, and furniture along with a TV (Korean TV!! more on this later), a refrigerator, and window. I pay about $325 a month, which when compared to the cost of American hotels and apartments, is minimal.















There's also a kitchen on my floor with a rice-maker that is always full, drinking water, and a refrigerator full of kimchi. =)



















But I still haven't eaten in the kitchen yet because there are tons of places to eat in Sinchon, the area of Seoul where I'm staying. Since Sinchon is the student district of Korea, I've been going to a different place for each meal...everything I've tried so far has been inexpensive and delicious! Some examples:

Korean barbecued chicken - Dak Galbi: This is a popular dish which I hadn't tried once in America..













You get a bowl of spicy raw marinated chicken, green onions, mushrooms, and other vegetables, along with a hot wok-type grill. The raw stuff goes on the grill at your table, cooks in front of your eyes, and you can eat the barbecue straight off of the grill!















As you can see, they even give you aprons! If you go around Sinchon, you'll see tons of places with a sign saying Dak Galbi in Korean.

Shabu-shabu: This is similar to sukiyaki, if you've tried it. It's the same type of deal as the dak galbi: the food cooks at your table. We ordered kalbi kalgooksoo shabu-shabu (beef and sliced noodle) which also came with onions, mushrooms, and bok-choy. You put the raw ingredients in a boiling pot of broth, let cook, and enjoy!















"Toast"- This isn't the puny toast that we eat in America with butter and jam. The Korean version includes a hot vegetable egg omelet with cheese, ketchup, and mustard sandwiched between two grilled pieces of bread. Only 1,500 won ($1.50 US)! Lately we've been picking it up on the way to class in the mornings.


















And who could forget the food chains?? Korean versions of American food chains:

- Baskin Robbins: Extremely shiny and cute inside. Baskin Robbins is pretty popular in Korea, as are all types of yogurt, smoothie, and ice cream places.














I got a Kiwiberry "cooler", which is a kind of fruit smoothie. Compared to American smoothies, it was much lighter, fruitier, and more refreshing! Delicious, but didn't load up on fat and sugar like a smoothie from a New Jersey Dunkin Donuts or Orange Julius might.














The garbage system here is pretty complicated. Every time you throw trash away, even in a fast food restaurant, you need to separate all of the components, spoons, napkins, cups, etc. They all go in separate bins; Baskin Robbins has a cute little trash container near the exit.















Drew Barrymore advertises for Korean Baskin Robbins..hmmm.

- Burger King:














Instead of the U.S. Burger Kings' light colored orange/red/white interior decorations, it's mainly black and white inside. For some reason, it also has an Elvis (emphasizing American-ness?) shrine on one wall. The menu is similar, but includes orange-ade, which another popular Korean drink, the "bulgogi Whopper", which I ordered (it's actually the exact same thing as a regular Whopper, but with a different type of sauce), and patbingsoo.














Patbingsoo is a Korean shaved ice dessert, and I think it replaces the fruit parfait on the American menu. They top the shaved ice with sweet red bean syrup, fruit, and whipped cream; it's yummy, although the photo does look a little strange.

- Pizza Hut: Because American food is much more expensive than Korean food in Seoul, places like Pizza Hut have turned into semi-gourmet restaurants. The Pizza Hut menu includes five courses PLUS a wine menu!! Anyway, we got the bulgogi pizza for lunch..














The meat on the pizza may look like sausage, but it's actually Korean marinated beef.




















The wall decoration confused us..The frame is of cheese, which I understand for a pizza place, but the chef inside is holding oranges...? Also he looks like a pig, an animal which we've been seeing everywhere on posters, decorations, and products here.















When it was time to go, they boxed up our leftover pizza like any other Pizza Hut, but... they put a red ribbon on it like a gift! The ribbon had some Korean on it, which translates into "Let's be happy with Pizza Hut". Haha, as long as I can eat like this I'll be happy!

So, do Koreans really eat dogs? They do in the countryside but in Seoul, dogs get pretty princely treatment! We passed this place called "Tokyo Dog College" with the cutest miniature dogs..











I'm not really sure why it's called a dog college. You can buy puppies and pet supplies there, and also get your dog groomed. Puppies were being displayed out in the windows:










*awwww* These dogs are practically the size of my hand!












Apparently in the region of Seoul called Apgujeong they have dog cafes where owners and their pets sit and enjoy snacks and drinks (doggie snacks for the canines, people food for the owners).

Some people are a bit too lenient when it concerns their pets...see this dog? doesn't it look angelic?















Ha! It tried to bite my hand off when I tried to pet it..the owner's response was an indulgent laugh and petting =p

Here's a gadget that I found in the airport bathroom: the Etiquette Bell.



















There's one Etiquette Bell in each toilet stall...the purpose is that if you're concerned about others hearing any noises that you might make while you're in the toilet, you push the button and it makes a flushing noise to mask any lesser sounds. Unfortunately, the sound that emits from the machine is BLATANTLY FAKE! Haha, the beginning of the flush sounds like a bad radio and it ends on static.. I wonder if it's better for someone to actually hear your fart or for someone to hear a fake flushing and know that you've just farted?! Hmmm..

And of course, the ubiquitous Korean version of the American term "sexy"-- "SHEKSHI", which comes up in numerous billboards, advertisements, and even conversations! Shown below, Gangnam district's "Shekshi Club" sign:















Tomorrow's Friday! Class from 9 am - 1 pm and then it's the weekend. More on class and me learning Korean later =)

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posted by Jane @ 7:18 PM   3 comments
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